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Scuba Diving in the Red Sea.
The Red Sea is arguably one of the top
destinations in the world for excellent reef diving along with some pretty
exciting wreck diving. There are also a few scattered drift dives which
can be absolutely awesome at times. There are two general areas which are
most popular with the majority of divers: the northern area centered on
Ras Mohammed at the tip of the Sinai Peninsula, and the southern area
which includes everything for hundreds of miles starting about 25 miles
south of Hurghada.
Most
of the Red Sea is accessible from Egypt although one can also dive from
Israel, Saudi Arabia, the Sudan, Eritrea and Jordan. All of our experience
has been from Egypt because the dive location in Israel and Jordan are
too limiting; Saudi Arabia has limited infrastructure and access is pretty
much limited to the military; and the Sudan and Eritrea are, just too
difficult and cumbersome to get to and all the diving is European camping
style in Jeep safaris, to say nothing of the civil wars...
In the north there are two main land based
areas. The most well known is, of course, Sharm El Sheikh. Built up since
the War, it is a typical European style holiday village and a lot of fun.
There is a wide boardwalk running for several miles along the beach,
bordered by one hotel complex after another. There have to be a couple of
dozen dive shops and more dive boats than are countable scurrying back and
forth between Sharm, Ras Mohammed and the Straits of Tiran.
In Sharm, we work primarily with Sinai
Divers because their operation is reliable and safe, and
they know how to show divers a good time.
They have been in operation for almost 25 years and have all the
facilities one could want including equipment rentals and repair and a
full service photo and video center. They even have a little gift shop
with some interesting dive-related clothing I haven't seen elsewhere. As
with all operations in Egypt, diving is European style. That is, 2 dives
taking up most of the day with a 3 hour surface interval during which a
hearty lunch, cooked aboard the boat, is served. Expect little in the way
of free afternoon time when you are diving here. Shore diving is also
available, but few Americans seem to want to take advantage of it; I think
that's wise because most of the shore sites seem to be fairly well dived
out.
There is an excellent selection of hotels,
from the 3-star Ghazala (where Sinai Divers is located) to 4- and 5-star
luxury palaces. All are within walking distance of the shop and where you
stay depends mostly on your pocketbook and desire for amenities.
Camel Diving!
About 60 miles north of Sharm is the little
village of Dahab. I was there once and had a wonderful Camel Dive. It was
probably the most unusual dive of my life: you are driven by Jeep about
10 miles across a seashore track, through army checkpoints and even across
rock falls large enough to necessitate getting out and climbing
while only the driver takes the vehicle across. Eventually you reach a
herd of camels tended by half a dozen sub-teen Bedouin boys. Your gear
(yes, even the tanks) is loaded onto the camels, you mount up yourself
and, 90 minutes later, you are at a camp/dive site and are the only people
for miles. Talk about being out in the wilderness! The first dive is
awesome because the site is dived so seldom that everything is pure and
pristine. During the surface interval, the camel boys serve terrific
stews, chicken and salads; it's almost enough to make you want to blow off
the afternoon dive but everyone forces themselves into the water. After
emerging, the boys have the camels almost fully packed and you are on your
way back to Dahab the way you came.
We left at 7 in the morning and returned about 8 at night in the dark --
but it was adventure every minute of the way! They also have overnight
Camel Dives, which is high on my list for my return visit.
Heading south, except for the wrecks (Giannis
D, Carnatic [shown] and the Chrisola K) at Abu Nuhas, between Sharm and
Hurghada, there is little until one is at least 25 miles south of
Hurghada. Then, as you get further south, the diving gets better and
better. Many of the famous dive sites (Brothers, Elphinstone, Zabargad and
others) have been closed by the government, but the dive operators are
searching out new sites all the time. Plus, this being Egypt, they may or
may not be open at any time.
Liveaboard Diving in the Red Sea, Egypt.
The Ghazala Voyager, Ghazalas I &
II and The Lady M.
Although there are many
liveaboard boats in the Red Sea, not all of them come up to the typical
standards Americans expect. So we won't even consider sending you on them.
However, there are several which are fine platforms for exploring this
wonderful area.
Recommended
are the liveaboards operated by Sinai Divers out of Sharm El Sheikh, the
87 foot Ghazala Voyager and the sister ships, the 78 foot Ghazala
I and the 65 foot Ghazala II. They also operate the 87 foot
Lady M. They are ideally suited when combining some Red Sea diving with
tours of Israel and/or Jordan as it's a short hop down to Sharm and you
don't need to pass through Cairo if you prefer not to.
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