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Visit Aswan.
Aswan, until
Napoleon’s onslaught in 1799, marked the southern reach of the navigable
Nile – the First Cataract – and therefore, the end of the civilized
world. This formerly sleepy
little trading post with the wonderful winter climate has always been the
crossroads between Egypt and the African interior.
Even today you’ll find goods, foods and crafts from Aswan’s
melting pot cultures sold by a colorful ethnic spectrum in Aswan’s
equally colorful souk (with prices better than in Cairo, as you might
expect). Aswan’s pace is
comfortably lethargic, tempered by time measured in millennia, and very
conducive to the carefree float of a sailing felucca.
The
felucca sail is a must.
In your felucca, possibly the world’s most graceful craft, if
you’re really lucky you’ll spot Horus look-alike falcons nesting on
deserted stretches, glide past the starkly modern Aga Khan Mausoleum and
the granite pachyderm humps of Elephantine Island.
Granite was Aswan’s ancient claim to fame; its quarries furnished
raw material for much of the sculpture at Karnak and Luxor.
The Unfinished Obelisk is a prime example.
It can be seen in a quarry just south of Aswan still attached to
bedrock and, had it not developed a fatal crack, would have weighed an
amazing 1,100 tons when completed.
In
the 20th Century Aswan came into its own with the construction
of two dams designed to regulate the annual Nile inundation.
The river’s flooding literally meant life or death for Nile
Valley agriculture and the ancient Nilometer measured the extent of
the inundation that could be expected down river in the north.
The Aswan High Dam, a modern day triumph built in the
1960’s, created Lake Nasser and brought both water and hydroelectric
power to Egypt. BUT
threatened to flood over some of the country’s treasures.
Stone by stone these treasures were relocated and painstakingly
reassembled.
The
beautiful Temple of Isis at Philae was saved, as was the rarely
visited but fascinating Kalabsha Temple, also the tiny Temple of
Dendera (residing now in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art – a
gift in appreciation for America’s monument rescue assistance), and the
world’s most impressive saved antiquities:
the rock-cut temples at Abu Simbel.
Built by Ramses the Great to honor himself (of course) and his
beautiful queen, Nefertari, they served as a warning to southern peoples
that Egypt’s border began at this point.
It is absolutely worth the short air trip from Aswan to view not
only the ancient monuments but the engineering marvel of their
reconstruction into what is the 2nd largest dome in the world.
A
Nubian banquet is just the thing to cap your Aswan visit.
These joyful, graceful people can put on a great party and you’ll
be smiling and dancing with them before you know it (bring lots of
film!). Our set tours spend
at least a full day in Aswan, but, if you have the time, there’s enough
here to occupy a lazily spent two or even three days.
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For more information
please
e-mail
us or phone:
1-888-575-6941
(toll-free in the
US) or
+1-352-402-0412
(worldwide)
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