Like any crossroads culture, Egyptian
cuisine has picked and chosen those ingredients and food that grow best as
well as best meet the flavor and nutritional needs of their people.
Bridging Africa and Asia as it does, Egypt has a lot from which to choose.
Tourist hotel meals will offer well
prepared if unexciting meat/vegetable/starch entrees but that's not the
real food of the real people. To eat "real," you have to eat
"street." And Egypt is a culinary adventure. "Eating
street" as we define it, doesn't confine itself to standup meals from
cart vendors -- it's more the everyday cuisine of the everyday person in
the street. These everyday Egyptians eat well. Meats are largely grilled
or roasted, whole or minced, with lamb and chicken predominating. You see
a lot of cows but they seem to serve more as farm equipment than beef.
The
shish kabob style is extremely popular and is served either with or
without the skewers but always with traditional accompaniments: greens and
tomato salad, tahini sauce and pita bread. So you can stuff your own
sandwich if you want. Bread is always whole wheat pita, coated with coarse
ground wheat, round, fragrant and sheer heaven when hot from the oven.
Often pita plus a dipping sauce, tahini, hummus or babaganoush, makes a
fast food meal and a healthy, delicious one at that.
Egyptians have embraced the tomato and we
never had one that wasn't bursting with color and flavor. The traditional
and ubiquitous salad is chopped tomato, coriander, mint, little hot green
peppers (not jalapenos but close) and onions, coated with garlic oil. It's
great for digestion but death on the breath. Bring mints. Other veggies
that grow well and show up all the time include beans, mostly chick pea
and fava, which are eaten stewed for breakfast, hearty stewed for lunch
and dinner and ground and pasted for tahini and hummus with great amounts
of garlic.
Eggplant, mashed as the main ingredient in
babaganoush, is also used in Egyptian moussaka with a mild white cheese.
Okra, cabbage, cauliflower and potatoes show up frequently, stewed with
tomatoes and garlic. Rice is a universal constant and was consistently
wonderful, even for breakfast! The grains mix short basmati-like rice with
longer brown, nutty tasting rice and we wish we could have found it to
bring back.
Grilled pigeon is the acclaimed delicacy
and like any small game bird is long on flavor but short on ease of
eating. We only had fish on the Red Sea, perch and tuna, both fried, but
flavorful without excess oil. We had various types of pasta from time to
time but never did find out if it was wheat flour or rice flour based.
Nevertheless it was uniformly delicious.
Of course, when you think
"Orient" you think spices. Egyptian bazaars display staggering
amounts, sculptured into colorful spice pyramids, from yellows of saffron
and ochres of curries to deep blues of powdered indigo dye. Food is
usually spices but not spicy. Cumin and salt are found on restaurant
tables.
Middle Eastern desserts are nothing
special; they do bake but, to the Western taste, figs, date and nut
fillings in largely unsweetened dough isn't a dessert. Better to eat the
fresh figs, dates (of which there must be 200 different types and grades),
oranges and pomegranates without baked modifications. Speaking of
fruit, juice bars abound in the streets and fresh squeezed oranges
sweetened with cut sugar cane is heaven in a hot climate.
Beverages? In a Moslem country alcohol is
frowned on and is wildly expensive to tourists. But Stella, the local
beer, is mild, not overly "beery" and comes in huge bottles
which is handy to quench the permanent thirst in the desert climate.
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